Sorry no pictures but I know how they work. As you turn the crank it winds up a nylon string, the string pulls a ring that the tines that support the umbrella frame are attached to. The tines push out on the frame and the umbrella is unfolded.
Find an older, upscale-ish japanese invasion bike with Sugino VP cranks. You should be able to get them for less than $10. Buy a set of five half size crank bolts. Remove the big ring and put the small ring in its place on the other side of the crank spider. Attach with the new half size bolts. Voila.
For about $15 you have a killer, super-strong fairly lightweight crank. The VPs are dead ringers for the Sugino track crank which goes for over $100. You can get Sugino stuff anywhere if anything breaks or you want something other than a 42 tooth ring.
Crank up the torsion bars? How much is it to get the alignment right?
Regarding the torsion bars: What is the question?
Are you aware of how torsion cranking affects ride and suspension? Perhaps balljoint spacers would be a better option. Why is your ride height wrong?
Regarding the alignment: Call a local shop. Every market is different.
How do I immobilize crank in order to get torque to remove pedals?
You want to lean over the bike. Put the pedal at the front position and the wrench just above the crank arm. Hold the pedal with your left hand and push down on the wrench with your right. Stand on the other side of the bike for the left pedal and do the same thing. Wrench just above the crank arm and push down with your left hand.
How do i reposition the distributer crank on a 2000 mercury villager to mesh with the crank in the block?
You need to turn the motor over untill it's on #1 TDC and then take the distributor cap off and position the rotor to where the #1 spark plug wire is on the cap. Note the rotor will turn when putting the distributor back in as the gears mesh so you may have to try a couple of times. you may have to start with the rotor slightly off one way or the other so when the distributor seats all the way the rotor is in the #1 position. Set the finale distributor position with a timing light. Make sure you read up on if there is any wire to jump when setting the base timing.
when the Model T was first released, it was not yet practical to put a large enough battery and electric motor on the car to have an electric starter. therefore, there was a crank that turned the crankshaft of the engine. I believe the model T was fitted with a ratcheting mechanism, so the crankshaft did not force the crank to continue turning, but essentially, you would manually set the fuel mixture and ignition timing manually to a position that would make the motor eeasiest to start, and then turn the crank to start the motor turning. I know on some cars the crank was removable, but don’t know if it was on the model T. may pictures show the crank in place on a running car.
interestingly, many early volkswagens were also available with a crank start option.
later models, of course, came with an electric starter, first as an option, later as standard equipment.
here's a video of a model A with a bit of explanation of the process.
(it doesn't have an embed code)